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Transfer Box mounting question

Dikfrik

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#1
Gents i mentioned in the homokinetic shaft thread abut the problems with the one mount of the transfer box which i could not get loose

Decided to open a new dedicated thread about the issue since it seems there are more trouble looming here.
background:
The one mount of the transfer case have been looking dodgy for a while and i did buy a new one quite long ago but have not done it. Now when trying to remove the bolt it was stuck inside the steel sleeve of the rubber mounting. I could not get it out eventually destroying the rubber around it. Now it seems there is a sleeve from some hard plastic material in the mount housing with the remains of the rubber inside. I tried to pry it out but no luck. Then to the manual to see how to replace the mount and it seems one need a special tool to press out the old rubber and another one to push it back - anybody done this before?

I looked at the part ordered under this VIN and it looks different from what i see in the 461 even if it is ordered against the correct VIN. The mount looks different from the 460 as per attached picture. i also attach a snip form the the EPC where the guy at the dealer confirmed the part number for the kit. It seems the 461 mount has a polymer (could cut it while trying to clean out the rubber) bush with the rubber and steel bolt sleeve which the 460 has a dumbbell shaped rubber with only the steel sleeve intsert. The lips of the dumbbell is visible on the 460 mounting and not there with 461.
Could it be that the dumbbell one is a retrofit for the factory fitted one on the 461. My 461 is a 2000 model and perhaps use 463 parts?
 

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Andrew

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#2
The 460 and your 461 transfer case is a VG 80. Much later the 461 got a 463 style VG 150.

I am obviously not the authority but to my knowledge, I know of no imcompatibility for any VG 80 mounts (except for very early models that had only 3 and not 4 mounts.) Perhaps there is a superceded mount now being used even as a retrofit?

I pull them in and out using plenty of rubber grease and a crude tool i made after seeing the workshop manual tool somewhere.
 

Dikfrik

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#3
Thanks Andrew
Having successful taken them out and putting them back makes you the obvious Authority..
It is just that the two do look different as installed and it appears that there is a hard sleeve around the remnants of the rubber but it seems to be made of something softer than steel - i have that manual you speak about i will study the issue a bit more. I will post on P3 as well
 

Alan

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#4
Ah, you refreshed my mind Freek. Yes your mounts are different but the same as my old blue 461. Those are the ones I had made with the hard sleeve. I don't recall how I got them out but seem to remember I cut a slot in the sleeve and got it out that way. Replacing I did with a plate on top with a nut welded on and a bolt/threaded rod from the bottom through the new mounting and basically pulled it in. Make sure everything is clean and square.
 

Alan

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#6
Sorry , no Freek, but maybe try this Vin number.
461 338 271 060 22
Was my Blue G.
 

Alan

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#13
Sorry Freek I don't remember.:eek:
Maybe give them a call.
BTW the ones I made are in my old blue G and in Pierre's G without issues since then.
 

Dikfrik

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#14
OK update
Got the last two mounts in SA - pricey but i bit the bullet to make sure i have the right stuff
The mount have a lip on one side and all of them on top of chassis bracket - so they have to go out to the top.
I used 22mm long impact drive socket which has an OD slightly smaller than the bearing OD and bottle jack and managed to push the LHS rear one out
The problem now transpired that you will not get the new mounts in without removing the gearbox - maybe the two rear ones but definetely not the front ones - looking at the other mounts all showing signs of significant wear it is probably the right thing to do to replace all while i am at it

Then another curved ball - that shift lever seal on the gearbox started leaking all by itself so i must have damage the new one..or it was a dud since i recall it slipping quite easily over the shaft..

Playing Saturday mechanic is becoming less of a pleasure at this point..
 

Alan

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#15
I also removed the TC. To make it easier get someone inside the G and attach a rope to the TC let them help lifting. Makes life a lot easier.
 

Dikfrik

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#16
Thanks Alan!
What about using a trolley jack?
Advisable to drain the oil?
And another worry - when i split the propshaft flanges there was a bit of black smelly (like diff oil) coming out - maybe a 1/4cup on the rear and a few spoons from the front.
 

Alan

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#17
Eish, that is oil out of your TC. Sorry but best to replace the seals as well. This job is getting bigger and bigger.
Take note of the size of the Nuts that fix the flanges, MB might give you incorrect ones. Best to take yours as sample when fetching new ones.
 

Dikfrik

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#18
Alan
Not what i wanted to hear..But approaching 470k km i suppose not unexpected. It will then make sense to replace the seals on all 3 shafts?
Is that a very tricky job best left for gearbox specialists? If so is it worth looking at the rest of box as well? Bearing etc?
The flange bolts you refer to are those as marked below?
 

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Alan

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#19
Freek, if you have no other issues I would just replace the seals. The TC is quite an animal if you take it apart and requires some special tools.
There are so few of them that I doubt you will find someone that can fix it for you, so best you take time and read up and do it yourself.

The nuts I am talking about are the ones that hold your prop shaft flange. Not the one's in the picture.
 

Andrew

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#20
If i understand correctly this oil was between the propshaft flanges and transfer case flanges?
If so it leaked via the splines and not the seal?
1/4 of a cup and some spoons contained inside the void between the flanges in half a million km?
And you are going to pull off the flanges and replace the seals?

Just checking.
 
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