Its been a while since I updated this thread. Been busy with lots of little bits and pieces. It goes to the police for clearance and to the test station on Tuesday if I can get my old nemesis - 460 brakes (*%#€¥") fixed. It takes two liters of brake fluid to prime a 460 - why the hell I think I can do it with 1.5 liters - die vet alleen weet.
I have done something else wrong also - the front propshaft does not vibrate at 85 km/hr.* This i can live with.
I have driven about 50km (skelm roads) and aside from the crappy brakes let me put it out there - this thing is lovely. Very comfy, quiet, and it goes better than my expectations.
*My mate Dean took his new Defender back to LR and complained that when it rained his right foot did not get wet.
Seats come out of a B class. They almost fit, in that the drivers seat is pinched too tight against the console and the door bin (which i can fix) and they are higher than the original seats. For the passenger this is no problem at all, but the driver cant see the top of the speedo nor the temperature guage through the top of the steering wheel. These are two things that I do not want to see on a G anyway, so the seats stay, because they are awesome comfy.
But at present my trouble is not going, but stopping. I phoned Dirk and he reminded me that the bottom pistons of the front calipers work together with the rear brakes, and the top pistons (dual circuit) are the independant second circuit. I really hope that i have cocked this up because it wont pass the roadworthy as it is. Will check it tomorrow and report.
No Riaan - it was failed - for the brakes - which I thought were ok after adjusting the plumbing. Testing brakes for me means going fast down a dirt road and jamming on brakes and then looking at the skid marks. This morning my skid marks were really fine, but the testing station unfortunately has their own way of testing, which today disagreed with mine.
Do you mean you have done all this work and you did not overhaul the slaves? A slave is relatively easy to fix, lets hope its not the equaliser valve.
My restored Unimog (with drum brakes all round) failed twice) for insufficient braking, despite new linings. The tester then suggested I "bed them in" by driving with the brakes on for several kilometres. I worked.
If the left rear brake is ok and not the right one the equaliser valve should not be the issue since they are on the same circuit?!
Maybe you can add some brake force on the rear cylinders by adjusting the levers in such a way that the valve believes there is more load on the rear axle.
Andrew have to tried by passing the ALB? I had similar issues and the ALB was the problem. You can quickly test it by disconnecting the "load" lever and pushing it up to full load while securing it with a cable tie.
Ja thanks Doug. I am reasonably certain it is not that. The load lever is locked fully up. The left wheel has 3.1 Kn of brake force, and the right has 0 according to the test station. Also, both rear bleed nipples have plenty of fluid when you bleed it. See Rolf's description above.
Gents, a 3D printer is a valuable spanner when you rebuild a G. I managed to make a good few parts for this rebuild with this one. This is a custom reverse light switch holder to match the 711.113 gearbox to a 124 selector. Works perfectly.