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Homokinetic Drive Shaft refurb on 290GDT

Dikfrik

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#1
Gents

The inevitable happened and the boot for the CV's on this short shaft between the transfer and main gearbox cracked.. I was expecting that to happen some time (I think Riaan replaced this about 90 000km ago?) and had an opportunity to get service kits but now i would like to ask experienced people on the best way to tackle this - i found a nice DIY write-up on P3 but for instance my kits (GKN inside the Merc boxes) has a small tube of "universal jointing compound which i am not sure where to use - (probably sticking the cork seal to whatever surface it goes to) which the P3 write-up does not mention

I am not sure how far i have been driving with the cracked boot but i have not heard any funny noises or feel different vibrations - i certainly hope the CV is still OK otherwise i will have to take a bond on my house it seems..:eek:

Riaan did you do the job yourself at the time?
 

gideonpetzsch

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#2
In my opinion those two CVs don’t work very hard in terms of angles. It is in pretty much a straight line. Having lost grease shouldn’t have killed the joint. I would remove the shaft, clean, repack the joint and fit a new rubber boot. Make sure to inspect the second joint boot while its out the vehicle. Regards Deon
 

Doug Nel

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#6
I did this on the G55. The one side seemed to have some heat damage to the ball bearings. Luckily they are 1inch in size and available at BMG. Also managed to get a boot that fitted from Autoquip
 

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Doug Nel

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#7
Also just make sure that when you clamp the boot that it is not in line with any of the mounting holes for the bolts, otherwise you could struggle to put it back
 

Pete460332

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#8
These joints turn at a high rate of rpm. Usually CV's rotation speed is 3-5 times slower as they are placed after the diff. Seems the grease gets flung out over time and then fail.
 

Dikfrik

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#9
Thanks for feedback Guys but two more questions - any idea where i must put that sealant given in the package and what tool do i need to close those clamps? I have heard one can use those end cutting wire clippers?
The high revving will explain why the boots are so hard - although i must say i could not recall that the original ones where that hard and they lasted more than 300k km. Referring to Riaan's post about replacing it while he looked after the car tells me these ones only did close to 80k km - another sign of Merc going to cheaper parts failing more regularly ...much higher profit margin..
 

Doug Nel

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#10
Hello Freek. No idea of the sealant. But if you trust your CV Driveshaft outlet, you can do all the packing and re-greasing and then just take it to them to clamp the ends.
 

Andrew

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#13
I cant help with the jointing compound - apologies.

Knipex steelfixing pliers work the clamps perfectly. Grease the joint every 40 000 km by inserting a thin needle between the small end of the boot and the shaft. It is a high speed joint as Peter says and flings its grease into the boot away from the balls so that in heavy sand driving for example, you will hear if it is dry as it makes that cv clicking noise. I would stick to MB boots because of its speed.

Lastly it does not help to rotate the shaft 180 degrees ie front to previous rear, if you thought about doing that to load the reverse direction of the joint! It took me a while to work that out!
 

Dikfrik

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#14
Greg - thanks for offering the tool but it seems the knipex pliers will do the trick as per Andrew

Andrew
Apologies accepted..i will post a question on P3 perhaps
I have fortunately not considered the rotating thing.. my head is too flat..
I do recall that you battled to get yours out - any wise words..
 

Andrew

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#15
I believe the joints are meant to have enough float in them for removal. I loosened the transfer case. And i think i had to remove the exhaust heat shield that is also weaseled into there. I made Ruan do it the second time!
 

Dikfrik

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#16
OK feedback..I managed to get (wrestle) it out and back again but it was a challenge! (without loosening the transfer case) And I havent exercised my arm and shoulder muscles in a long time and have been stiff for a couple of days after removal and after putting back. Fortunately the one boot still in perfect condition (after cleaning and proper inspection) and the cracked one did not loose a lot of grease since there was still a lot good condition grease in the joint. So i replaced the one boot and wrestled the shaft back - but low and behold..obviously for my sins the boot started leaking after a few 100km's! Looks like some came out under the front clamp (Oetiker - which i crimped with a 300mm Knipex tool with another 150mm extended arms by means of square tubes pressing as hard as i could) as well as from the rear cup! Looks like it will have to come out again...

Any wisdom on the finer detail of fitting the cork seal and rear cup and the boot clamp? I used copious amounts of the provided sealant between cup and joint but also a bit on the one side of cork seal (maybe i should not have put on cork seal which has a pre-glued surface on one side?
 

Dikfrik

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#17
Ruaan came to my rescue explaining what he did when he did the ones on my car while Riaan was still "borrowing" it he also advised that i should remove three mounting bolts on the transfer case and pull it slightly back using a tie-down strap. This made removing shaft much easier - however that opened another can of worms..
When i opened the leaking CV it seems that it was indeed the extra sealant which pushed the cork seal way from the bolt holes where most of the leaks occurred. Fortunately i did not lose too much grease and everything else seemed intact. In process of replacing the outer cap.

Now the can of worms.. The one mount of the transfer case have been looking dodgy for a while and i did buy a new one quite long ago but have not done it. Now when trying to remove the bolt it was stuck inside the steel sleeve of the rubber mounting. I could not get it out eventually destroying the rubber around it. Now it seems there is a sleeve from some hard plastic material in the mount housing with the remains of the rubber inside. I tried to pry it out but no luck. Then to the manual to see how to replace the mount and it seems one need a special tool to press out the old rubber and another one to push it back - anybody done this before?
 

Alan

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#18
Hi Freek, many moons ago I did this. IIRC I used a jack with a pole and a bolt over which I placed the rubber mount. Lubricated the mount and jacked up the pole with mount into the mounting hole. Do it slowly otherwise you push it right through.
 

Alan

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#20
The rubber mounting is different t the older 460's.
I had a two sets made up of which I installed one and the other was stolen....