Hi Guys,
I am looking for a "Drag Link" for my '84 RHD 460. (see: http://www.neoriginal.ru/cat/mb/part...60_330_/46_120)
It is the link between the steering box (pitman arm) and the LF wheel.
The ball joint on the steering box side is worn, the other side still OK.
So if anyone has one lying around with the ball joint on the longer part (the steering box side) still servicable, I would be interested in taking it over.
Regards
Cecil
As far as I know these aren't serviceable items. The whole draglink has to be replaced. I bought one from MB for my 463 which was about 4k ZAR.
I know Andrew has made up kits to replace the boots if that has perished but if the joint is kaputt then it is a new one for you I am afraid.
It is possible to buy a tie-rod end for the one end. I had the other end filled (re-lined) with some engineering plastic for approximately R 280.
This was 4000km ago, it is still lasting.
At the prohibitive price of the complete link this avenue is worth exploring.
Regards
Rolf
Thanx Guys,
I am aware that MB sells it as a (very expensive) complete unit, but also noted that it can be screwed apart, thus I reckoned if somebody somewhere had to buy a complete unit, and the half I need is still good, we might be able to do some back-scratching
Unfortunately it appears that the side I have a problem with is the one more prone to failure
I have a set of Andrew's dust-cover boots, but it was already too late for the drag link. I have installed it on the tie-rod though, and can recommend it. So even if someone has half a drag link with shot boots, but that is mechanically still OK, I can still use it.
I have heard of the reconditioning, but do not know where around Pta it is done, can anyone direct me?
Much appreciated
G roetnis
Cecil
Where did you do this Rolf?Originally Posted by Rolf Redecker
The guy's place is called Eddy's Wheel Alignment. He has a method of melting the plastic, pour it into the joint and let the whole set cool off.
Maybe it should fall under "boer maak 'n plan" I will monitor the joint.
Regards
Rolf
Ive also had that done some time ago. Guy came out with compressor and air drill, and some pressure/heat tool (heated with gas), drilled a hole into affected joints and injected with teflon under pressure and heat. (There is a newer thing than teflon that lasts longer but I forgot the name) This all works if the joint is still round on the inside and not worn oval. Slight up-down movement can be eliminated. It is not possible to see condition (ovality) beforehand so you inject and hope it lasts a while. Generally if you didnt have a lot of play it can last 2-3 years for tar driving and less for offroad. With more wear before injecting (oval inside) it may only last a few months. Cape Town has this option at most fitment centres by appointment.
It lasted on 4 joints for as long as I had my previous G which was for about 2500km before selling it.
Last edited by Leonard Hugo; 28th September 2011 at 18:06.
Cecil - It is always the steering box end that goes first IMO.
Ford tractors use the same taper on the rod ends.
The teflon injection is done by Wingate Brakes in JHB. I have no experience of it.
Isidore Sostak (Man. Dir.)
Wingate Motors c.c.
t/a Wingate Brake & Steering Centre
South Africa
+27-11 334-7030 Ph.
+27-11 334-5993 Fax
083 600-9929 Mobile
wingate[at]iafrica.com
They are currently overhauling two brake boosters for me and appear to be very knowledgeable.
Will it last meaning is it worth the expense?
It is a temporary fix mostly for Roadworthy test, will probably pass after failing on play on the joints like my previous one. Or for a few months to a year to save up for the proper job. Will not last indefinitely when offroading. More viable alternative for road cars although they generally have affordable replacement joints. Cost on 4 joints was R150 callout fee + R80 a joint x4 on mine so R500 = almost a tank of fuel. Bearing that in mind vs new price = viable option as a temporary fix in my opinion.
Last edited by Leonard Hugo; 30th September 2011 at 13:52.
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